Lifting Mechanisms
Unlike draperies or
curtains, you will be making your own mounting system. The
reason for this is that your lift lines determine where the hardware is
on the mounting board. Each and every window is a different size, so your
headrail must be made to fit. It is very easy to make the lifting system
and "Terrell's way" will be described later on.
We
refer to the hardware attached to the headrail as the lifting mechanism.
This hardware provides a way for the lift cords, which are tied to the
lowest row of lift rings, to exit one side of the shade so that you can
evenly and easily lift the shade. Let's look
at the options for lifting mechanisms.
First, you have to
begin with a board. The recommended mounting board is a 1x2 pine board.
These are readily available in all lumber stores and home stores, such
as The Home Depot. The actual size of the board is usually 3/4" by
1-1/2" and it is sold in 3-ft, 6-ft and 8-ft lengths. The lifting hardware is attached to the
"bottom" of this board and your shade is either attached (with
staples or Velcro) to the front of the board (in the case of a Classic
Roman shade) or hung from the board (in the case of a Top-Down shade).
Each lift cord runs up a column of lift rings to the top of the
shade. It is necessary to "direct" each cord along the top of
the board and out one side of the shade. The cords are then braided
together and used to lift the shade.
The simplest and
least expensive option is to use screw eyes. A cord cleat is
used to tie-off the cord at any position.
Advantages:
inexpensive
Disadvantages: the lift cord rubs on the screw eyes when the
shade is raised. This friction makes it difficult to raise the shade,
particularly a large shade. The cord can even shred over time.
The next
method is to use pulleys instead of screw eyes. I have seen
shades that have only one pulley at the location where the cords exit
the shade. This does make the shade easier to pull up, but the cord
still rubs on the other screw eyes. I prefer to use a simple pulley at
EACH cord location. Once again, a cord cleat is used to tie-off the cord
at any position.
Advantages:
operating the shade is smooth and easy.
Disadvantages: the pulleys are more expensive than screw eyes.
The
third method
is to use a Cord Lock pulley in tandem with the outside pulley.
The remaining lift lines use a simple pulley. This eliminates the need
for a cord cleat. The shade is "locked" into place by swinging
the lift cord away from the shade. The shade is "released" by
swinging the lift cord toward the center of the shade.
Advantages:
you don't need a cord cleat. Some people think that this gives a more
"professional" look.
Disadvantages: you are now taking a simple lifting system and
introducing more complicated parts. This can mean problems in terms of
eventual cord shredding and failure of the Cord Lock. For a complete
(and totally biased) discussion on Cord Locks, Click
Here.
The
fourth method
is to use a Continuous Loop System. This is becoming the
"standard" lift system on ready-made shades sold in stores
such as Sears and Home Depot. This system is also call a Clutch Lift
System. The lift cords are wound around a metal shaft that is
suspended from brackets attached to the mounting board. There is no need
for a cord cleat since the shade is position by pulling on the looped
cord.
Advantages:
you don't need a cord cleat. You are definitely "up-to-date"
as far as sophistication for your lift mechanism.
Disadvantages: There are many! I have one of these in my kitchen
on a large shade covering a 7-foot sliding door. It takes me about 20
"pulls" on the loop cord to open (and close) the shade. I find
this very annoying. The mounting board has to be placed in a projecting
manner (the widest part of the board sticks out into the room) because
the clutch is wide. I personally like for the shade to be closer to the
wall. Building the headrail and stringing the shade is a lengthy
process.
There is one more
lifting option: motorization. These are available using a
light-switch mechanism and/or a remote control. Since this involves hard
wiring and a special (and expensive) headrail, I doubt that I will be
discussing that option any time soon.
Continue
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Contact
Information:
Terrell
Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188 Email:
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