How To
Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade
This very
popular shade is actually easy to make. Based on the Classic Roman
shade, an extra set of cords is added so that the top drops down. The
shade can be lowered from the top to maintain a view and still provide
privacy. It can also be raised from the bottom to allow access to cranks
to open your window. Learn about the simple changes required for your
shade to operate flawlessly in both directions. Many professional
details are described.You can use these directions to make a
one-fabric shade, or to turn your fabric art into a top-down/bottom-up
shade.
You should
also read the Top-Down Shade FAQ's
(Frequently Asked Questions) Section.
As you
follow the Steps, you can click on the links for more information. Then
use the Back button on you browser to return to this page. If you have
already printed out prior Sections, simply print out this page also and
refer back to earlier parts.
Step 1. Read the first three parts of this How-To Section
(Understand Roman Shades,
Measure and Design, and Common Techniques).
Step
2. You need to understand the differences between operating a
Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade and a Classic Roman Shade.
Like a Classic
Roman Shade, a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade is made with a fabric front backed with
a drapery lining. The same type headrail (with pulleys or screw eyes and
possibly cord locks) is used and is attached to the wall or window trim. Unlike
a Classic Roman shade, the Top-Down shade is not attached to the headrail with
Velcro. The shade "hangs" from a second set of lift cords that are
tied to the top of the shade. Since the headrail is exposed when the shade is
"dropped", it is covered with a small valance.
The top
edge of your Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade differs from a Classic Roman
shade. It holds a Stiffener Board and the Top-Down lift rings. The
Stiffener Board is required so that the top edge is straight, since it
is visible when the shade is lowered. The Top-Down lift rings must be
sewn to the shade at the top of a pocket that
holds the Stiffener Board. An additional "flap" of fabric
extends up beyond the pocket to hide these rings and the knots of the
cords.
The panel
drops in nice even folds along the columns of lift rings and lift cords
that also perform the Bottom-Up function. Study the drawing below and
you will see the differences between a Classic Roman shade and a
Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade.

The sketch above shows the BACK of a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade. The Top-Down
hardware is shown in red. The Bottom-Up
hardware is show in blue.
Operating the Top-Down Cords
 The shade is "closed" (fully covers the window and is fully
extended) when the shade is pulled all the way up to the top of the headrail.
(It can only be pulled up to the bottom of the hardware, we will discuss that
later.) The Top-Down Cord is at it's longest when
the shade is in it's closed position. It is cleated-off, or engaged in a cord
lock, which holds the shade up. Releasing the cord lowers the shade. It drops in
folds because it is guided by the Bottom-Up Cords.
A knot in the Top-Down cord stops the shade at the
lowest position you want it to drop.
Operating the Bottom-Up
Cords
 We start again with the shade "closed" (fully covers the window and
is fully extended) with the shade pulled all the way up to the top of the
headrail. The Bottom-Up Cord
is at it's shortest when the shade is in the "closed" position. The
cord pull hangs freely with a knot just below the last pulley, or without a knot
from the cord lock. When you pull on the Bottom-Up Cord, the bottom of the shade raises
up in accordion fashion.
The emphasis of your planning is different with a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade.
You MUST start with the hardware (lifting operation) in order to make your shade
"system" (the fabric shade and the valance) the correct size.
- There are two sets of pulleys (or screw eyes).
- You MUST use a 1x2 mounting board in the projected installation so that
the two sets of cords (top-down and bottom-up) don't interfere with each
other. This means that the board projects from the wall or inside of the window at least
1.75".
- The shade can be pulled up only to the BOTTOM of the lifting hardware. If
you are using cord locks, this means that it can only be pulled up to about
2.25" from the top of the headrail.
- You make a small valance to cover the lifting hardware. This valance is
part of your overall design.
Continue
the Learning Process with "Part 2:
Make a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade"
Back
to the top of this page
A
Comment on Copyright
These directions are
meant for you to print out and make your own shades. My intention in posting
them here for anyone to see and use is two-fold:
|
I no longer have to answer the same questions over and over again. |
|
I am hoping that when you make your shades, you will order
some or all of the hardware and supplies from me. |

There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase
anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do.
That is, modify and claim these directions as your own.
Contact
Information:
Terrell
Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303) 758-0188 Email:
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