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How to Make Roman Shades 
Video Clips Understand Roman Shades Folding Internal Battens Ideal Stackage Lifting Mechanisms Appropriate Fabrics Measure and Design Mounting Options Measure Window Operating the Hardware Calculator Sketch Your "Pattern" Pattern Template Example Pattern Gather Fabric and Hardware Required Tools Common Techniques Cut Fabrics Hem Bottoms Sew Side Seams Glue Battens Sew Lift Rings String Shade Mount Shade Make Classic Roman Shades Close Top with Velcro Make Headrail Make Side Tabs Make Top-Down and Bottom-Up Shades How Cords Operate Finished Dimensions Folding TDBU Shade Design Plan Make TDBU Headrail Cord Lock on TDBU Make TDBU Shade Mount TDBU Shade Make Top-Down Only Make Valance
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How To
Make a
Top-Down
Only Shade
If you don't need to raise your shade from the bottom, this project is for you. You have one set of cords that are used to lower the shade. This shade can be made as an outside mount or an inside mount. Just like the Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade, it hangs from the headrail and is not attached to the bottom of the window. The headrail (mounting board) is covered with a Valance. You should
also read the Top-Down Shade FAQ's
(Frequently Asked Questions) Section. Step 2. You need to understand the differences between operating a Top-Down Only shade and a Classic Roman Shade. Like a Classic Roman Shade, a Top-Down shade is made with a fabric front backed with a drapery lining. The same type headrail (with pulleys or screw eyes and possibly a cord lock) is used and is attached to the wall or window trim. Unlike a Classic Roman shade, the Top-Down shade is not attached to the headrail with Velcro. The shade "hangs" from a second set of lift cords that are tied to the top of the shade. Since the headrail is exposed when the shade is "dropped", it is covered with a small valance.
The panel drops in nice even folds along the columns of lift rings (you could call them "guide" rings in this case) and guide cords. Study the drawing and you will see the differences between a Classic Roman shade and a Top-Down Only Shade. Operating the Top-Down Cords Step 3. Decide how you will mount your Top-Down Only shade: inside mount or outside mount. You have the same options as for a Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade. Step 4. Measure your window or windows. Step 5. You must determine a Finished SHADE Width and a Finished SHADE Length for each shade.
Step 7. Sketch a Top-Down Design Plan for each shade. Step 8. Purchase your front fabric, lining and hardware. Print out the results of the Hardware Calculator so that you have a list of your required hardware and supplies. Remember to do this for each size shade you are making. Also, if you are making multiple shades that are the same size, be sure to multiply your hardware requirements by the number of shades. Step 9. You make your headrail first for a Top-Down Only shade. You need the completed system in order to determine how long to make the fabric panel for your shade. What to have on hand for each Headrail:
Size of Headrail board: (You can make the Board and Valance for an Outside Mount as wide as you wish.) See the changes to the instructions for a Top-Down Only headrail if you are using cord locks. Cut and cover Board, then attach your Top-Down pulleys and Guide Screw Eyes. Refer to Your Design to mark the locations of your pulleys. The outside pulleys should be placed 1/2" from the ends of the board. If you made the board more than 1" longer than the Finished Shade Width, move your pulleys further in from the outside edges.
The Top-Down pulleys are attached to the FRONT of the headrail using small wood screws (the front is where the Velcro is staples. Place the pulleys close to the front of the board, since the Guide Screw Eyes will go directly behind them. Leave room on the side you want your Top-Down cords to exit the shade for a small KNOT screw eye. Guide Screw Eyes: These are attached to the BACK of the headrail directly behind the Top-Down Pulleys. You may want to use full-sized screw eyes (see ours) rather than the small Knot Screw Eyes. Attach "knot" screw eye and angle irons.
Changes to directions if you use a cord lock pulley.
Continue
the Learning Process with "Part 2:
Make a Top-Down Only Shade"
A
Comment on Copyright
There is, of course, no way that I can guarantee that you purchase anything from me. However, there is one thing you should NOT do. That is, modify and claim these directions as your own.
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Make Roman Shades
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The top
edge of your Top-Down Only shade differs from a Classic Roman
shade. It holds a Stiffener Board and the Top-Down lift rings. The
Stiffener Board is required so that the top edge is straight, since it
is visible when the shade is lowered. The Top-Down lift rings must be
sewn to the shade at the top of a pocket that
holds the Stiffener Board. An additional "flap" of fabric
extends up beyond the pocket to hide these rings and the knots of the
cords.
The shade is "closed" (fully covers the window and is fully
extended) when the shade is pulled all the way up to the top of the headrail.
(It can only be pulled up to the bottom of the hardware, we will discuss that
later.) The Top-Down Cord is at it's longest when
the shade is in it's closed position. It is cleated-off, or engaged in a cord
lock, which holds the shade up. Releasing the cord lowers the shade. It drops in
clean folds because it is guided by the second column of lift rings and guide cords.
A knot in the Top-Down cord stops the shade at the
lowest position you want it to drop. 
