Threading a Cord
Lock Pulley
You
can thread the 1.4 mm and 1.8 mm lift cords in the "slot" made
by the guide wire and the plastic housing. Both of these cords are large
enough so that they do not catch in the small space between the roller
bars and the housing. The photograph at the left shows three cords
threaded through the "3-Slots" Cord Lock Pulley. You can use
up to 6 cords (two in each "slot") with these cord locks. This
Cord Lock is not recommended for use with 0.9 mm lift cord since you can
only use the one, internal slot.

The photograph
above at the left shows three 1.4 mm cords threaded through the metal
guide wires of the "5-Slots" cord lock. You can also thread
the 1.4 mm cord through the two outside slots, next to the housing. If
this were 0.9 mm lift cord, you could only use the interior slots, since
the thinner cord can become caught in the small space between the roller
bards and the housing. The photograph above at the right shows ten 1.4
mm lift cords threaded through the cord lock pulley. There are two cords
in each slot. This is the maximum number of cords you can have if
you are using a cord lock pulley. If you are using 0.9 mm cord, you can
have a maximum of nine lift cords (three in each internal slot).
Threading a Cord
Lock Pulley
I include directions with the Cord Lock Pulleys when you purchase them
from me, but in case you are curious, read on.
First of all,
something to NOT do: DON'T REMOVE THE GUIDE WIRES to make it easier to
insert the cords. Instruction books for Warm Windows actually suggest
that you do this. I have found that once the wires are removed, they
tend to come out by themselves over time as you operate the shade. Not a
good thing!
The
Cord Lock Pulley is attached to the underside of the mounting board, on
the side of the shade that you want the cords to exit. The larger
(metal)
roller should be on the "outside" edge of the shade. In the
drawing, you would use your right hand to raise the shade. This means
that the right side of the shade ends at the right side of the pulley
and the cords enter the Cord Lock pulley from the left side. I have
drawn three cords. When the pulley is
in the position that is drawn (hanging down), there is a gap between the
two rollers.
Trudy
Rucker, a customer from San Rafael, California, sent me a message about using a Dental Floss Threader as a
needle to thread the lift cord through the cord lock. You will receive a
threader with your cord lock.
Step 1.
Thread all cords through the top of the cord lock.
Step 2. Thread one
lift cord through the Floss Threader. Poke the end of the Floss Threader
between the two rollers and through one slot of the cord lock as shown
in the schematic below.

Step 3. Gently pull
the cord through the cord lock.
Step 4. Repeat with
all cords, except guide the Floss Threader through a different slot for
each cord. See the Chart
on the "Cord Lock Pulley Details" page for the total number of cords that can be
threaded through each slot and whether or not you can use the
"outside" slots next to the plastic housing).
It is impossible to
test the cord lock pulley before it is attached to the board and shade.
Tension on the lift cords is required to make it work properly. You may
even have to have the weight rod in the bottom of the shade in order to
unlock the mechanism.
There
is one big drawback with Cord Lock pulleys. They eventually shred the
lift cord. This is due to the nature of how they work. The lift cord
is threaded between a smooth plastic wheel and a notched metal wheel.
Those little metal teeth bite into the cord to hold the shade up. A
loosely woven cord shreds especially fast. The cord I offer for sale is
a very tightly woven polyester, but even so, I have found that I have to
restring a shade about every two years.
It is
STRONGLY recommended that you place a "tandem" flat pulley (or
a "tandem" screw eye) next to the Cord Lock pulley. Please
note that I am NOT trying to sell you one more pulley. I am only telling
you what works best. It is a lot easier to pull up a shade when you use
the Cord Lock with a tandem pulley. If you don't use a tandem pulley,
the last lift cord (pink in the drawing below) will quickly shred. What I really wonder is why the Cord
Lock designer didn't add an additional roller bar to provide the
function of the tandem pulley.

A
caution about using Cord Locks with inside-mount shades. In order to
lift the shade, your have to reach behind it (several readers have
described this as "fishing for the cord") to grab the lines.
To unlock the shade, you may have to lift the shade out of the way so
that you can swing the cord towards the center of the shade. Look at the
drawing near the top of the previous page.
Commercial
products such as miniblinds thread the lift cords through grommets (or
simple button holes) at
the top of the shade so that the cords and Cord Lock are at the front of
the shade. This is covered with a small valance. This way it is easy to
reach the Cord Lock mechanism, rather than reaching behind the shade.
The lift cord hangs in front of the shade. Please note that I DO NOT
have instruction on-line for this method. However, you can see great
photos sent to me by Doug Millar of South Portland, Maine along with his
explanation of how he used grommets to bring the cords to the front
of
his shades.
I have
clients that insist on using Cord Locks even on inside-mount shades and
seem to have developed a technique that they find comfortable to unlock
their shades. As you may have gathered from this discussion, I don't
particularly like these devices and much prefer to use a cord cleat. But
be assured that the one that I do use and sell on this site are the best
available.
Troubleshooting
Cord Lock Pulleys
Device does not
work.
It is impossible to test the Cord Lock Pulley before it is attached to
the board and shade. Tension on the cords is required to make it work
properly.
Device does not
release cords.
Make sure that you have installed the lock in the correct orientation.
The larger, metal roller must be on the "outside" of the
shade.
You need a weight rod in the bottom of the shade. There must be downward
tension on the lift cord for the cords to release. If you have a weight
rod, try a heavier one.
My lift cord
is shredding.
See
comments above about cord shredding.
Be sure to use a
tandem pulley or tandem screw eye next to the cord lock. See the
drawings above.
You
should use tightly woven cord. One no-no is Wright's polyester
cord which is widely available in retail fabric stores and is labeled
for use for Roman shades. One way to test your cord is to tap the end.
If it frays easily, you will have a problem.
Trade-Offs for
Cord Lock Pulleys
Cord
Locks are convenient, but require occasional replacement of the lift
cord. You can restring the shade with new lift cord without removing the
shade from the headrail.
You
have to "fish" behind the shade to unlock the shade. This is
particularly annoying for an inside-mount shade.
Cord
cleats are a permanent solution, but require an extra step (winding the
cord around the cleat) each time you raise and lower the shade.
Back to Shop
for Mounting Hardware.
Contact
Information:
Terrell
Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303)
758-0188 Email:
Home Shopping
Meet The Artist
Galleries
How To Make Roman Shades
FAQs
Roman Shade Hardware
What's New Contact Hardware Calculator
Links
Site Map
|