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Use our Hardware Calculator to determine the number of Cord Lock Pulleys required for your Classic Roman shade, Top-Down/Bottom-Up shade or Top-Down Only Roman shade. 

Free instructions on how to make your own Roman shade are available in the How To Section. 

 

Be sure to read the comments on lift cord shredding when using a Cord Lock Pulley.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We are your specialists for making Roman shades, buying Roman shade hardware and learning how to make Roman shades, whether Classic flat shades or top down bottom up shades.

Threading a Cord Lock  Pulley
You can thread the 1.4 mm and 1.8 mm lift cords in the "slot" made by the guide wire and the plastic housing. Both of these cords are large enough so that they do not catch in the small space between the roller bars and the housing. The photograph at the left shows three cords threaded through the "3-Slots" Cord Lock Pulley. You can use up to 6 cords (two in each "slot") with these cord locks. This Cord Lock is not recommended for use with 0.9 mm lift cord since you can only use the one, internal slot.

 

The photograph above at the left shows three 1.4 mm cords threaded through the metal guide wires of the "5-Slots" cord lock. You can also thread the 1.4 mm cord through the two outside slots, next to the housing. If this were 0.9 mm lift cord, you could only use the interior slots, since the thinner cord can become caught in the small space between the roller bards and the housing. The photograph above at the right shows ten 1.4 mm lift cords threaded through the cord lock pulley. There are two cords in each slot. This is the maximum number of cords you can have if you are using a cord lock pulley. If you are using 0.9 mm cord, you can have a maximum of nine lift cords (three in each internal slot).

Threading a Cord Lock Pulley
I include directions with the Cord Lock Pulleys when you purchase them from me, but in case you are curious, read on.

First of all, something to NOT do: DON'T REMOVE THE GUIDE WIRES to make it easier to insert the cords. Instruction books for Warm Windows actually suggest that you do this. I have found that once the wires are removed, they tend to come out by themselves over time as you operate the shade. Not a good thing!

The Cord Lock Pulley is attached to the underside of the mounting board, on the side of the shade that you want the cords to exit. The larger (metal) roller should be on the "outside" edge of the shade. In the drawing, you would use your right hand to raise the shade. This means that the right side of the shade ends at the right side of the pulley and the cords enter the Cord Lock pulley from the left side. I have drawn three cords. When the pulley is in the position that is drawn (hanging down), there is a gap between the two rollers.

Trudy Rucker, a customer from San Rafael, California, sent me a message about using a Dental Floss Threader as a needle to thread the lift cord through the cord lock. You will receive a threader with your cord lock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 1. Thread all cords through the top of the cord lock.

 

Step 2. Thread one lift cord through the Floss Threader. Poke the end of the Floss Threader between the two rollers and through one slot of the cord lock as shown in the schematic below.

   

Step 3. Gently pull the cord through the cord lock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4. Repeat with all cords, except guide the Floss Threader through a different slot for each cord. See the Chart on the "Cord Lock Pulley Details" page for the total number of cords that can be threaded through each slot and whether or not you can use the "outside" slots next to the plastic housing). 

It is impossible to test the cord lock pulley before it is attached to the board and shade. Tension on the lift cords is required to make it work properly. You may even have to have the weight rod in the bottom of the shade in order to unlock the mechanism.
 
 

There is one big drawback with Cord Lock pulleys. They eventually shred the lift cord. This is due to the nature of how they work. The lift cord is threaded between a smooth plastic wheel and a notched metal wheel. Those little metal teeth bite into the cord to hold the shade up. A loosely woven cord shreds especially fast. The cord I offer for sale is a very tightly woven polyester, but even so, I have found that I have to restring a shade about every two years.  

It is STRONGLY recommended that you place a "tandem" flat pulley (or a "tandem" screw eye) next to the Cord Lock pulley. Please note that I am NOT trying to sell you one more pulley. I am only telling you what works best. It is a lot easier to pull up a shade when you use the Cord Lock with a tandem pulley. If you don't use a tandem pulley, the last lift cord (pink in the drawing below) will quickly shred. What I really wonder is why the Cord Lock designer didn't add an additional roller bar to provide the function of the tandem pulley.

A caution about using Cord Locks with inside-mount shades. In order to lift the shade, your have to reach behind it (several readers have described this as "fishing for the cord") to grab the lines. To unlock the shade, you may have to lift the shade out of the way so that you can swing the cord towards the center of the shade. Look at the drawing near the top of the previous page.

Commercial products such as miniblinds thread the lift cords through grommets (or simple button holes) at the top of the shade so that the cords and Cord Lock are at the front of the shade. This is covered with a small valance. This way it is easy to reach the Cord Lock mechanism, rather than reaching behind the shade. The lift cord hangs in front of the shade. Please note that I DO NOT have instruction on-line for this method. However, you can see great photos sent to me by Doug Millar of South Portland, Maine along with his explanation of how he used grommets to bring the cords to the front of his shades.

I have clients that insist on using Cord Locks even on inside-mount shades and seem to have developed a technique that they find comfortable to unlock their shades. As you may have gathered from this discussion, I don't particularly like these devices and much prefer to use a cord cleat. But be assured that the one that I do use and sell on this site are the best available.

Troubleshooting Cord Lock Pulleys
Device does not work.
 
It is impossible to test the Cord Lock Pulley before it is attached to the board and shade. Tension on the cords is required to make it work properly.

Device does not release cords.
 
Make sure that you have installed the lock in the correct orientation. The larger, metal roller must be on the "outside" of the shade.
 
You need a weight rod in the bottom of the shade. There must be downward tension on the lift cord for the cords to release. If you have a weight rod, try a heavier one.

My lift cord is shredding.
 
See comments above about cord shredding.
 
Be sure to use a tandem pulley or tandem screw eye next to the cord lock. See the drawings above.
 
You should use tightly woven cord. One no-no is Wright's polyester cord which is widely available in retail fabric stores and is labeled for use for Roman shades. One way to test your cord is to tap the end. If it frays easily, you will have a problem.

Trade-Offs for Cord Lock Pulleys
 
Cord Locks are convenient, but require occasional replacement of the lift cord. You can restring the shade with new lift cord without removing the shade from the headrail.
 
You have to "fish" behind the shade to unlock the shade. This is particularly annoying for an inside-mount shade.
 
Cord cleats are a permanent solution, but require an extra step (winding the cord around the cleat) each time you raise and lower the shade.

Back to Shop for Mounting Hardware.
 

Contact Information:

Terrell Designs, owned by Terrell Sundermann 
5325 Sanford Cir. E. Englewood, Colorado 80113
Phone: (303)
758-0188  Email:

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